A Belay Device That Feeds Like Butter
The Petzl Neox is Petzl’s latest innovation in assisted braking belay devices (ABDs), designed specifically for lead climbing. While it resembles the iconic Grigri in shape and function, the Neox introduces a rotating wheel mechanism that dramatically improves slack feeding without compromising safety.
For climbers frustrated by short-roping during clips or belayers tired of thumb gymnastics, the Neox promises a more intuitive experience. We tested it across indoor gyms, limestone sport crags, and granite single-pitch routes to see if it lives up to the hype.
Build Quality and Materials
The Neox is built with:
- Aluminum side plates
- Stainless steel friction plate, cam, and wheel
- Recycled nylon handle
- Weight: 235g
- Rope compatibility: 8.5–11mm single ropes (optimized for 8.9–10.5mm)
The device feels solid and ergonomic, with a slightly heavier profile than the Grigri. The rotating wheel is the standout feature—designed to reduce friction during slack payout and delay cam engagement until necessary.
Rope Handling and Slack Feeding
This is where the Neox shines:
- Slack feeds effortlessly, even with thick gym ropes
- No need to override the cam manually—just pull smoothly
- Minimal short-roping, even during aggressive clips
- Brake hand stays on the rope, following standard tube-style technique
Compared to the Grigri, which often requires a thumb press or modified grip to prevent premature locking, the Neox allows ATC-style feeding with assisted braking safety. It’s a game-changer for lead belayers.
Catching Falls and Braking Performance
The Neox uses a spring-loaded cam that engages when the rope is weighted. The rotating wheel delays engagement slightly, resulting in:
- Softer catches, especially on thinner ropes
- Reliable locking, even during dynamic falls
- No rope slippage once the cam engages
Some users report a brief “slip” before the catch, which may feel unfamiliar compared to the instant lock of a Grigri. However, this slip is controlled and contributes to a gentler fall arrest, reducing impact forces.
Lowering and Rappelling
Lowering is controlled via a plastic lever, similar to the Grigri:
- Smooth descent control, even with heavy climbers
- 3:1 mechanical advantage reduces hand fatigue
- Brake rope remains easy to manage, with no jerky motion
Rappelling is possible on a single strand, but due to wear concerns on the aluminum brake surface, we recommend using a separate device for regular rappels.
Top-Rope and Multipitch Use
While optimized for lead belaying, the Neox performs well for:
- Top-rope belays, with smooth rope take-in
- Lowering from anchors, with precise control
However, it’s not ideal for belaying from above on multipitch climbs. The rotating wheel may allow rope to slip back out unless the climber fully weights the rope. For multipitch, a Grigri or ATC Guide remains preferable.
Ergonomics and Usability
- Handle shape is comfortable and intuitive
- Rope installation diagram is engraved on the device
- No special technique required—just belay like you would with an ATC
- Clicking noise during rope take-in is normal and indicates wheel engagement
The Neox is friendly to new belayers, reducing the learning curve associated with cam override techniques. It’s also a great option for left-handed users, thanks to its symmetrical feeding action.
Durability and Maintenance
After extended use:
- No visible wear on the cam or wheel
- Brake lever remains responsive
- Rope grooves show minor polishing, typical of aluminum devices
Maintenance is simple:
- Wipe clean after use
- Avoid sandy ropes, which may accelerate wear
- Inspect wheel and cam periodically for debris
Comparison Chart: Neox vs Leading Belay Devices
| Feature | Petzl Neox | Petzl Grigri | Edelrid Pinch | Black Diamond ATC Guide |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Weight | 235g | 175g | 235g | 88g |
| Rope Range | 8.5–11mm | 8.5–11mm | 8.5–11mm | 7.7–11mm |
| Slack Feeding | Excellent | Moderate | Good | Excellent |
| Fall Catching | Soft, reliable | Instant, firm | Soft | Manual |
| Lowering Control | Smooth | Smooth | Moderate | Manual |
| Multipitch Use | Limited | Good | Good | Excellent |
| Price (UK) | £112–£125 | £85–£110 | £110–£130 | £30–£40 |
| Best Use | Lead belaying | All-round belaying | Multipitch + lead | Trad + multipitch |
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Feeds slack effortlessly
- Reduces short-roping during clips
- Soft catch with reliable braking
- Ergonomic and intuitive design
- Ideal for lead climbing and single-pitch crags
Cons
- Heavier than Grigri
- Not ideal for multipitch or indirect belays
- Slight rope slip before catch may feel unfamiliar
- Premium price point
Final Verdict
The Petzl Neox is a specialist tool for lead belayers who want the smoothest slack payout without sacrificing safety. It’s not a replacement for the Grigri in all scenarios—but for single-pitch sport climbing, it’s arguably the best belay device on the market.
If you’ve ever short-roped a climber mid-clip or struggled with cam override techniques, the Neox offers a refreshing solution. It’s intuitive, reliable, and built for performance.
